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| Paris In Sites Newsletter Direct From France Edited by Linda Thalman Travel & Leisure Articles |
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Brittany And Normandy - In A Long Weekend November 2007
By Linda Thalman
Leaving at 17:30 we somehow managed to miss the traffic and
arrive in Rennes three hours later.
Parking was a not easy as it was Halloween, and the historic city center
was chock-a-block.
Restaurants and pubs were busy, folks were strolling
about in the reasonably warmish evening.
Our lovely two-star hotel, Hotel des Lices, was just across the street from a nice crepe
restaurant - L'Abri du Marché.
We raced off early the next morning out of Rennes, not finding one cafe open.
November first is a national holiday in France and Rennes was closed up tight
as a drum.
Coffee on the autoroute a bit later and on to Crouesty to the annual 'used boats' show.
Ten kilometers of traffic was backed up as we got closer to the port, but luck was
with us and we found the last parking spot in Parking Area 3 and took the free
shuttle bus to the port itself.
We looked at boats by individual owners and boat companies. In our dreams, we'd
like to have a 11-14 meter boat. In our dreams. We were just looking.
Parking was a nightmare. We double parked across the street from
our hotel and the parking gods were watching. Someone was leaving and we got their
spot... 50 meters from the hotel's front door. What a 'coup de chance'.
We'd reserved by phone for our evening meal at La Duchesse Anne.
The restaurant was 2 minutes from the hotel.
We had 'homard' and, nothing against La Duchesse Anne at all, but neither of
us really enjoyed this speciality. We've had homard several times in different
countries around the world,
and each time wondered if it was just us or is 'homard' just rubbery?
Pierre and my verdict is it is rubbery and we won't be tempted again.
A very nice choice for dinner was, however, Le Chalut which specializes in fish.
There's a lovely blue decor and the Saint Jacques and fish of the day we ordered were excellent,
as well as the service.
Be sure to book as it is a very popular restaurant in Saint-Malo.
A leisurely walk around the entire ramparts of Saint-Malo took 45 minutes. The sun
was out, the wind was gentle, the views spectacular out to sea and towards the historic
city center.
Saint-Malo was severely bombed in the Second World War. It has been restored ever so beautifully,
seemingly stone by stone, street by street, building by building.
The entire city center - intra muros - as it is know locally and on signs - is just ever so nice.
Friday was market day. It was lively, colorful and the stall owners oh so friendly.
The shopkeepers were delightful,
as well as the reception and service at the hotels and restaurants.
Put Saint-Malo on your 'to visit' as soon as possible list when visiting Brittany. Excellent!
What lovely late afternoon views we had of yet again a magnificent UNESCO Heritage site.
As we've already visited le Mont Saint-Michel, we just stopped for a few pictures
along the way.
If you've not been there, add it to that 'must visit' list in France.
Taking the departmental road along the coast. We loved the views, the villages, the
autumn colors and hardly another car in sight.
Off-season tourism is so nice! The sun was shining, it was 16C, it felt like spring not autumn.
Checking all our guide books, we decided to stop at the Marquis de Tombelaine restaurant
which has a view in the distance of le Mont-Saint Michel.
We ordered rack of lamb for two at 52 euros for the dish. Bravo chef Claude Giard, it was
more than memorable. Think succulent, delicious, tasty, perfectly cooked
lamb and that's what we had.
You must, just must try any of the restaurants along the
Pré-salé lamb is quite unique and the Normandy coast is one of the very, very few
places in the world to taste this delicious lamb.
Hotels
Restaurants
Normandie - Normandy
Comité Régional de Tourisme de Normandie: (Official Normandy Tourist Board)
Bretagne - Brittany
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31, October, 1, 2, 3 and 4 November we did a lightening visit to two beautiful
regions of France: Brittany and Normandy.
Don't hesitate to book two-star hotels as they are just perfect for a one or two
night stay.
Following a quick lunch we headed north to Saint-Malo and fabulous two-day stay.
Leaving the lovely town of Saint-Malo on Saturday morning, we
drove along the coast by le Mont Saint-Michel.
It wasn't so much the view, as it was a tad bit hazy, but rather the Pré-salé lamb.
A unique and exceptionally delicious lamb that we wanted to try.
General Information
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