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Martinique - Guadeloupe 2011
Ten Islands in the Lesser Antilles / West Indies By Linda Thalman
Our visit in January and February 2011 took us to:
Quite a trip and here's the story.
It was 15C, sunny, almost spring like but we're leaving for the Caribbean
on a Sunday afternoon on 16 January 2011.
Martinique is a 5-hour change in time zones and by the time we got in our
rental car and arrived in Saint Luce at our rental flat it was about 2 am body time.
Jean Yves and Gael were waiting for us - around 21:00 local time - and they welcomed us so warmly and let
us sink into bed, leaving the apartment inventory and sorting out of our
payment and deposit until Monday.
As Jean Yves predicted, we were up at the crack of dawn Martinique time the next morning.
It was windy, there were clouds, then showers, then sunshine, some more
showers... BUT it was so warm.
It is -2C in Paris... ha, ha, we're not there. Poor plants, my cold cats
and it's still really the dead of winter in the Paris region.
Pierre's been running along the beach every morning and I've been up at 7
in the morning too... but doing email, reading, enjoying a couple cups of
coffee while he sweats it out.
On our first day, we dipped in the warm sea, which we can just see from our
flat. The walk is about 10 minutes to a deserted beach with the waves
lapping at our feet in a postcard perfect setting... until the next rain
shower rolls in for 3 minutes and then the hot sun shines again.
Lunch was at a small beach restaurant near our apartment. Nothing to write
home about, but we were on the beach and still just a bit jet lagged.
We took an afternoon drive just north and west of where we're staying,
passing through Diamant, Grande Anse and Trois-Ilets. These are small
towns along the beach bordering on the Caribbean Sea.
We failed to find the huge Carrefour shopping center on this outing, got
lost in Ducros, stuck in traffic, and finally headed home.
Tuesday morning was leisurely and we only headed out by car around 11 in
the morning. This time we went further south, stopping at a Carrefour
Market that had only 3 checkout counters and about 60 people in the lines.
Groan.
On we went to Marin, the main port for the island. Parking just in front
of the covered market, which has food and arts and crafts, we wandered
about. Just as we got out of the car there was a deluge which was why we
decided to visit the market.
So, hey, the local restaurant inside the Market with grilled chicken, ribs and fish, local
beer and a really friendly service was perfect.
On to have a quick look at Sainte-Anne, with the most beautiful beach in
Martinique the locals and guide books say. It looked just fine but we
didn't test it out. Just too, too touristy.
It's an easy walk around on your own, following the very well signposted
'suite de la visite' signs starting with a wonderful collection of dozens
and dozens of different palm trees. Splendid.
We hit the weather right and didn't get rained on once. You see the
historic equipment and distillery buildings. Then through a beautiful
house, an outbuilding with contemporary art, wander through immaculate
gardens with gigantic bourgainvilliers in red, pink, white, yellow...
Superb.
There are buildings where the rum is stored and, of course, the boutique
where you can taste and buy. We did both.
We finally discovered the BIG Carrefour and just had to stop to look for
essentials like okra, beach shoes, oranges, bananas, a juicer for the
oranges for breakfast.
Flaking out Tuesday night we watched a DVD while having a salad and fresh
pineapple in our apartment.
Wednesday morning was a real treat. Pierre did his jogging at 7 am and at
8:30 we headed to Trois Rivieres for a morning on a quad.
I've never driven a quad and believe you me, the first 5 minutes gave me a
queezy stomach... but then I got it and Jean Yves said I was a really,
really good quad driver. Ouff!
We drove up and down hills, narrow paths with ditches on the sides, got
soaked in mud, rained on for 5 minutes, took a rest surrounding by a herd
of cows, stopped at the beach for a break and drove through the sugar cane
fields and mangroves.
It's just getting better and better.
After the quad adventure we had lunch on the beach in St Luce
at a nice but still simple restaurant; it sprinkled
again and then cleared up.
We swam in the sea.... and let me tell you, you walk into the water and
don't feel cold at all. It is almost bath water temperatures. Divine.
Nap on the beach; reading; dip again in the sea and when the rain rolled
in again, we headed home. It's windy and showery tonight so we ate in
again and are listening to National Public Radio in one ear and salsa
music out the other, coming from the owners' house. Very enjoyable.
The WiFi connection is great and it's so welcome!
That's it for tonight... tomorrow is either going north to Mount Pelée, --
the volcano that blew up in 1902 and destroyed Saint-Pierre or... we don't
know yet... depends on the meteo!
Next morning at dawn the sky was clear, the breeze light and it was warm.
Off we went to see, we hoped, Mount Pelée volcano.
It was not to be... shrouded in thick grey clouds in the afternoon we had
no view. Perhaps when we fly to Guadeloupe next week?
The morning began getting stuck in the daily traffic jams of folks driving
into Fort de France... not fun and not interesting. So we exited north
and verred towards the Atlantic coast through Gros-Morne, Sainte-Marie,
Marigot and Le Lorrain.
Falling upon the Rum Museum and the St James Distillery in Saint Anne we
had a look round, a tasting and purchased some more rum. You can take a
guided tour as well, but as we'd done the self-guided tour at the Clement
Distillery we gave that a miss.
Mount Pelée beckoned, but our hopes were dashed as the cloud cover was so
thick there was no hope of a view of the 1,397 meter high volcano.
Saint-Pierre was tragically wiped off the map in 1902 when Pelée exploded.
"Little Paris", as the town was known, has been rebuilt but there is
little if nothing that made me think of Paris today.
The new town stretches along the sea, with small shops, a few restaurants,
narrow streets with a sidewalk, then a deep wide ditch both sides of the road which I'm assuming are to
channel the torrential rains down the streets and not into the houses.
You really would not want to get your car stuck in these ditches!
It wasn't quite noon, so we drove slowly north to the village of Le
Precheur where we had lunch with a sea view in a pleasant restaurant
called La Melodie. Black rocks and sand were a foot away and the sea
lapped at the beach. Lovely. There was yet again a 10-minute downpour.
Then we headed up the mountain and "straight" through the middle of northern
Martinique on a very twisty-turny road.
The vegetation is stunning. Palms, banana trees, ferns, tall trees, ground
cover, shrubs - all gigantic.
Tropical plants that I can keep in the house might grow to a meter high at best.
Here some are taller than houses and grow like weeds.
It's not exactly a jungle feeling, but you can see that Mother Nature
has her hand in producing a most extraordinary show of plants and shrubs,
telling "man" to stay away.
Just 15 kilometers north of Fort de France on the National 3 road, we
stopped at the Parc botanique tropical de Balata.
What a stupendous collection of tropical plants, all identified with
labels, set in a perfectly groomed setting with ponds and shelters around
the grounds. These shelters were useful as it poured down with rain for
at least fifteen minutes.
The foliage glistened with the rain and gave it a magic touch.
In Oregon, where I grew up, we're lucky to have them but it was a treat to
see them up close in this tropical setting.
Straight into downtown Fort de France... in another deluge that didn't
seem to want to stop. So no walkabout today in the city center.
Stopping at the inter-island ferry terminal to sort out tickets for one
leg of our journey in 10 days to Dominica and then a visit to what is I
would guess is the biggest mall on the island.
It seemed funny to see Galerie Lafayette, Super U, Go Sport, and other
shops... just like near Paris... but we are still in France!
Dragging ourselves along the highway in the evening traffic jams to our
self-catering flat in Saint Luce, we are glad to relax after a long day of tourism.
Friday turned out to be a "do nothing much" day. We lazed about,
reading, having coffee, listening to the radio and reading news on the web.
Accras are deep-fried 'nuggets' of cod usually, through can be stuffed
with other ingredients, too.
The afternoon was a treat; no rain, clouds just scudding by and the warm
sea at our feet. We lounged under the trees, waded in and out through the
gentle surf for a swim; back to some reading; into the sea again....
boring? NOT at all... heaven.
Before the sun went down we had a wander through the village of Saint Luce
and again, with our feet almost in the sea, sipped on daiquiries and
watched the sun set.
The sun comes up around 6 a.m. and sets around 6 p.m. The temperatures go
down just a bit in the evening, but the daytime average has been 27 to
29C. The humidity hasn't been too bad. We notice it if we walk too far or
too long.
Pierre's been running every morning, before 7 am, and he comes back
drenched and basically just wiped out. So, yes, the humidity does get to you.
Around 7 in the evening, just as we were listening to news and thinking of
dinner plans the lights went out in our neighborhood. And off they
stayed for an hour. Folks were on their front porches, candles on the
tables, enjoying the evening. When the electricity came back on you could
hear the whoops of "yes" and clapping! What fun.
We'd been warned to be sure to take it real cool and be relaxed in Martinique.
Time beats to another drum here. Patience and being
laid-backed is a very important state of mind.
So tropical fruit salad for dinner, a bit of reading and that was the day.
Saturday 22 January is our last day in Saint Luce. We might go sailing on a small 2-person hobycat.
We might stroll on the beach and have another leisurely lunch. No special plans.
We've also got to pack and clean up before our evening at the Boogalou
restaurant in Saint Luce where latino and creole cooking are the specialty.
VIP parking in front of the restaurant, Saturday night at the Boogalou Restaurant for a Salsa
concert and our evening meal - delightful. Thank you Gael and Jean-Yves.
Lovely dinner, fantastic music, gigantic mojito drinks... we had 2 but
the kick was worthy of about double that.
Sunday morning we cleaned up the apartment, packed and returned our rental car
to the airport.
Too bad, we'll lug it around with us. The taxi ride cost a pretty
penny... 30 minutes and 75 euros later we were on the quai at Anse les Arlets and melting in
the sun.
Mariethé and Patrice zoomed from the boat to the quai to load our bags
into the annex or, also called a Zodiac.
"Paperwork" had to be filled in on the computer in one
of the local restaurants. It was a do-it-yourself affair, filling in passport
numbers, names, dates of birth, etc. and printing out the necessary document to be presented
when we arrive in the St Vincent.
The Valetta is a beautiful 15 meter catamaran and our skipper Patrice and
Hostess Mariethé serve us our welcome aboard drink and show us around the boat.
Wow oh wow oh wow and double wow.
What a difference in space from a single hull sailing boat. It's splendid.
You've room to stand up full height; our bed is queen-size with en
suite bathroom. That is a WC, sink and a shower. There's plenty of storage space, too.
Let me tell you that our chef has offered us delicious and varied fare, from
lamb and white beans, boeuf-carrotte, tirimasu, creme coco, tomato and
pasta salad with shrimbs, roast pork... every meal savory accompanied with bread made fresh
on board!
The best meals we had on our entire trip were ALL on the Valetta!
Just after sunset on Monday the fishing lines were being pulled in. The simple, thin
line was empty, but the rod and reel line snapped to attention and, yes, there was a
bonita weighing 8 kilos on the line. Impressive!
We had fresh sushi from this 'small' fish that has a tuna-looking and
tasting meat. Soya sauce and spices -- what a treat.
There have been squalls on and off on the trip and the temperature changes
from 29 C to a low of maybe 22 in the evening or if the downpour is a bit heavier or
longer.
No big complaints, especially as Paris has freezing temperatures and we're
in shorts, swimsuits and T-shirts and barefoot on the boat.
The water temperature is between 25 and 28 degrees C as well. Bathwater.
We're continuing south in the Grenadines, finally a really clear sky, a
bit of wind and the pace is between 5 and 8 knots per hour.
One guide book says there are 32 islands that make up the Grenadines...
seems about right. Some are totally uninhabited, others have small airports, bays to
moor in, some small jetties, villages, shops and restaurants.
Out of luck, no turtles today -- which are famous in Tobago. Another visit
will be needed.
Stopped at Petit Martinique island, which in fact belongs to the country
of Grenada.
Wandered up and down the one street, saw the primary school, a bank, got 2
stamps in the post office, did minimal shopping in a grocery store and that was
that.
We've reached our furthest point south so back we go towards Fort de France.
Our evening stop before the final day was again in Bequai, arriving after
sunset and plunking down the anchor away from other boats.
Quite rough seas - maybe up to 3 meters, most about 2 meters and the breeze
is good. It was bumpy but we didn't get seasick... you must stay up on deck as
down below it is not fun... in any kind of boat!
We had a quick stop in St Lucie, which was starkly much more upscale and
much too "clean" and predictable... no surprises on authenticity or local charm in
the port.
It's not overly comfortable to be in the cabin as the windows must be closed and
it's really too bumpy with 'high' seas when were moving from port to port.
So we rest in the upper deck inside dining area or on the back porch...
reading, watching the waves, a few birds, flying fish the size of minnows,
listening out for a pull on the line for a new fish.
Low and behold... it's another fish... a big fellow this time... long and
shiny and called something like a Zarba. The sea version of take out and a heck of a
lot better than land-based drive-throughs!
Before sunset we drop anchor in the harbour in Fort de France. The drum
beats, horns, singing and general whooping it up greets us.
This is the practice run for Carneval later in the month.
Who said the capital city was dead as a door nail on Sundays? Well, not this
Sunday. We had to inch our way to the Imperatrice Hotel on Liberty Street
from the quai... normally a 5-minute walk.
This time it took about 15 minutes with all
the revelers, onlookers, parading in costume, singing and dancing and drinking
locals!
Dinner was street food - 6 accras of different sorts for a whopping 2
euros. We'd eaten so well on the catamaran that we weren't ready for a sit-down
dinner.
Next morning we dragged our bags over to the inter island ferry terminal
for our 11 am boat... oops, cancelled. Next ferry 15:00. Darn and more ugly words
were muttered.
But remembering our mantra: we're on vacation, on vacation, relax, relax.
Unexpectedly we had to have lunch in Fort de France at the closest cafe to
the ferry terminal... we still had our bags... but only 2 of them, plus backpacks.
One big bag with fins and books and bottles left at the hotel.
Finally we set off for the island of Dominica and the rainforest... and I
do mean rain.
There are huge cruise ships in the harbor, like for 1,500 people or more, which stop in
Rousseau, the capital city.
From our much smaller boat we pulled our bags to the center of town... looking for a bookshop and an overview
of the town.
Almost all shops were closed as it was now after 17:00. A cool beer in a local 'pub' and
the owner called a taxi for us to take us up to the lovely Papillote Hotel,
just below the famous Trafalgar Falls.
The lush, lush, lush, vegetation was spectacular. We dipped in a small warm
springs pool rather than have a cool shower in the room. Dinner was perfect and then
to bed.
Up at 6 am listening to the frogs and birds and then a walk in the gardens
of the hotel.
There are several trails and we wandered upwards to the bird watching
covered patio. A 30-minute tropical rain fell. We read, watched and then headed for
breakfast.
The rain finally stopped and we walked up to the entrance of Trafalgar
Falls... along with dozens of minivans carrying tourists from the cruise ships.
Oh well, so it was a boulevard of tourists to the lookout and then we took
the next path down the hill for a closer look at Mama Falls and slipping and
sliding a bit for more photo ops with only a half dozen other folks.
For lunch we caught a local bus into the capital city and wandered about the town.
Bookstore stop to pick up a thriller in English; lunch at a pretty useless
place; should have left when half the items on the menu we not available and
there was a group of very loud and boisterous tourists right next to us.
Bliss, nobody but us. This was so, so, so nice.
Another lovely dinner and discussion with Ann, the owner. She's been on
the island since 1961 and is a most delightful person and knows everything about
the flora and fauna and the island.
While we didn't have time to see more of this island, it is a place I'd
enjoy coming back to.
Ferry back to Guadeloupe for 3 nights.
Karaibe Hotel is really just for back backers and low budget.
Day drive north, including the 'gates to hell' = porte de l'enfere beach where we had lunch.
Ropes to cross the river back and forth with shoes in the water to reach a
lovely falls... and then it rained torrentially for 10 minutes. All is wet, wet,
wet.
Muddy, muggy, lovely.
St Kitts: We're at the Anchorage Inn at Dickenson Bay. We had a lovely room, direct
access outside the patio door to the pool.
Reception was ever so kind and called the local bus to pick us up so we
could get to the capital city, St Johns and then transfer to another minivan bus to
English Harbor and Nelson's Dockyards.
The historic dockyards has several eateries on the grounds and we enjoyed
a burger and fish and chips and then a siesta on the beach, interupted by yet another squall.
There are sailing boats, catamarans and really big big yachts... like the
2 or 3 million
euro versions in Antigua and the other islands we've visited.
One is humbled seeing the much less well off locals - at least in material
goods.
While they are rich in so many ways, it certainly would be a better world
if the fruits of the earth were spread about a lot more evenly.
This island hopping is something and it gives me pause for thought as to the
privilege we have to be able to do it.
This morning's 30 minute flight landed in St Kitts and we're at the
Timothy Beach Hotel
south of the capital city, Basseterre.
The Caribbean DRY season is not exactly dry... it seems to mean rain
throughout the day and night, but only for short amounts of time.
Not sure I would appreciate the WET season.
In St Kitts and we have a large accommodation.
I've been updating this story and finally got to the beach for a dip.
Had a burger and red wine at 3 pm...jet lag of some kind; another dip
and now back in the room and the sun is dipping low and
it'll be dark soon although it is only quarter to six.
Our next flight is to Saint Martin staying in a backpackers 'cheap-o' hotel.
An ever so friendly reception but the room certainly wasn't one I really
wanted to stay in for three days... though we did.
At least 10 minutes from the city center on foot... hot and sultry walk it is.
Then a day trip by boat to Aguilla for the least value for money day
I've had in long time.
Two hours of sun, then two downpours and expensive taxis. Give this
place a miss.
From Saint Martin we flew via Guadeloupe to Martinique. Two hours wait and
finally on the LONG route home on one of the most uncomfortable flights I've
had in years. Merci Air France for all the leg room... not.
Too tired to try and use public transport... we gave up and took a taxi home.
The photos and memories are lovely
See General information and maps here:
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From Orly West to Fort de France it was only 8 and a half hours on a 777
Air France flight.
We've yet to put on the air conditioning though the humidity is about 75%
and the day time temperatures reach 30C. I'm reveling in the warmth,
wearing summer tops, loose fitting dresses or a swimming suit.
A minimum grocery shopping at the local 8 to 8 store to tide us over until we find a
supermarket and we're settling in.
Off we went north though Le Vauclin for a coffee on the Atlantic coast and
then a wonderful visit to the Rum distillery - only one of about a dozen
on the island - Clement Rummery.
The owners of our flat run a quad business and have a restaurant in Saint
Luce, too!
Crossing through Ajoupa-Bouillon and then the highest town on the island,
Le Morne Rouge, we settled on having lunch in or near Saint-Pierre.
Hummingbirds were feeding at the entrance to the garden and they were so
beautiful! If you've never seen one, you'd be amazed.
Lunch at yet another small beach restaurant where the menus are all quite
similar. There the usual choice of drinks all made with rum, creole
salad, grilled chicken, ribs, lamb or pork chops and fish. Accra is
always on the menu and it's a favorite of mine.
We had counted on leaving a bag in left luggage... but there is no left
luggage at Martinique's airport. Groan. The bag is heavy and filled with stuff we
don't really need on our cruise.
We moored in the Tobago Cays... very windy and I just couldn't do snorkling.
Couldn't get a foot hold to sort out my mask and tube. Took a quick look
and saw a few fish, though nothing to compare with the Red Sea or the
Maldives.
What a scene.
Our room had mosquito netting over the bed, a large bathroom and a patio.
Caught another local bus to the hotel and took the trail down the slope
this time to the larger warm pool ... all natural with a waterfall melodiously
flowing behind us.
Then we drove west, including the botanical gardens and the real deal jungle
hike.
I must stress how kind and so friendly everyone has been. Talking the
time to talk with us, answer our questions, give us tips and welcomes to their islands.
While waiting for our room we had a punch and watched the 10-minute
downpour approach and
as it hit, all the sun seekers piled their towels and books under the
umbrellas to wait it out.
Bedroom with large double bed; bathroom with shower; kitchen open plan to
a living space with dining table and sofa and a large patio. Very nice.
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Paris
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General Information
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Linda Thalman
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Email – Linda@wfi.fr
Web Address – http://www.parisinsites.com/
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