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| Paris In Sites Newsletter Direct From France Edited by Linda Thalman Travel & Leisure Articles |
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Granville, Saint-Malo, Iles Chausey France
& Jersey - Channel Islands UK By Linda Thalman May 2008
The weather was summerish in mid-May, the wind slightly 'soft', the views incredible.
Our crew of four started in Granville in Normandy. Captain Pete, Carol, Christine and I did a
short tour just outside the port before the tide went out on a Tuesday night.
All was well and the next morning we sailed off to Saint-Malo. We watched very carefully for
rocks and sandbanks and other boats.
The approach to Saint-Malo by boat is stunning and after our all day sail we were glad to
be on dry land.
Pierre and I had been there last year and in the meantime, le Chalut has received a one-star
rating from the Michelin Red Guide.
Prices have gone up
just a bit with that accolade, of course. Our seafood dinner dishes, wine and service were perfect.
Thursday morning we steamed out of the port on our way to Iles Chausey.
Disaster struck.
Pierre took the boom in the head. Sunglasses flew into the water, but ever so fortunately, Pierre
bounced off the ropes and stayed on the boat... stunned and bleeding.
We all learned the three important messages for the VHF: Mayday, pan and security.
Mayday comes, yes, from the French for m'aidez.
If you send out a Mayday, it is
'we are in a life threatening situation'. Take care and don't use that unless it is for real.
The emergency folks met us at the quay quite quickly but it seemed like hours. We had a boat ride
to the ambulance and then off we went to the nearest hospital. Result: 2 tiny stitches.
Doesn't sound like a big deal after the fact... but it was frightening at the time.
Thank you ever so much to the emergency crew and the hospital - both working on a holiday!
So we spent the day in Saint-Malo; it rained and got chilly. We were ever so
glad to be on land that day.
Nothing like a scary event to teach us all a sailing lesson!
There are day trips to Chausey and I recommend you visit. There's a lovely walk around the island,
exceptional views, beaches, nature, donkey rides for the kids. Super.
We moored our boat in the sound of Chausey in the evening and took the dingy to the main island
for dinner at the Hotel du Fort, which is one of two restaurants on this tiny island.
Wish the seafood platter I'd ordered had had the shrimps and that they'd told me they hadn't been
delivered as I was looking forward to them. A faut pas on the restaurant's part, but put in the
perspective of the sailing accident the day before, this was just not an issue.
Friday morning we awoke to high tide and the 3-story landing for ferry boats had disappeared.
Yes, gone, not there! Between high and low tide there is a difference of 14 meters.
I thought I had lost my mind... there was a structure with 3 levels of stairs that no longer
existed. I was dreaming... on another planet. Nope, just high tide. Amazing.
In the end we stayed outside the port along with some 50 other boats. Good decision.
Our two captains recalculated the tides and decided we'd get stuck inside the Jersey port
and not be able to leave for our sailing tour around the island early in the morning.
So, we meandered around the town, did shopping and finally had a pleasant Indian dinner at the Viceroy.
Very attentive service and a nice meal.
The next day we zipped out of the port about 7:30 and took our time skipping around the rocks, sandbanks,
shoals and other dangers to go clockwise around Jersey. The south, west and north coast is
stunningly beautifly. The east coast is more built up and, frankly, not particularly interesting.
We did see some dolphins for about 30 seconds and that was thrilling.
We tied up again at the Jersey port for Sunday night. Yet again outside the main port to avoid
the tides.
Dinner was at Mano's Bistro for delicious Portuguese cuisine, so said my crew mates.
I stayed on the boat thinking I'd just relax a bit and in the end got invited for
drinks and munchies by the fellows on the boat tied up to ours.
Quite nice to be invited by the folks on the boat next to you! Sailing can be fun.
Leaving early in the morning, about 7:30 on Monday we headed back to Granville under sunny skies
and a nice bit of wind.
Still keeping our heads down we all agreed we'd had one heck of great week.
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We had a sailing trip that will never be forgotten.
Our fifth crew member, Ali, arrived to meet us at le Chalut restaurant in St-Malo for a wonderful dinner.
We needed pan, pan, pan, which means an emergency but not a life threatening event.
Emotion over we set sail again for the Chausey Islands keeping our heads down and crawling
on all fours when below the boom.
Our mission was to get to Jersey, so off we sailed and arrived early in the afternoon and had to
tie up to wait for the gates of the main port to open with the high tide.
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Paris
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Linda Thalman
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Email – Linda@wfi.fr
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