Paris In Sites Newsletter
Direct From France
Edited by Linda Thalman
Travel & Leisure Articles
Visiting Everything in the 6th and 5th Arrondissements in Paris
Mission Impossible January 2002
By Linda Thalman
We spent three days - a Sunday, Monday and Tuesday - trying to visit all of the 6th and 5th arrondissements of Paris.
We had arranged with Rendez-Vous A Paris http://www.rendez-vousaparis.com/ a get-away break in one of their gorgeous apartments.
Our apartment was on Boulevard Saint Germain in the 6th arrondissement just east of Odéon and and a one-minute walk to the Boulevard Saint Michel in the 5th.
We had a gorgeous three-bedroom flat, with a living/dining room, a modern and fully equipped
kitchen and two bathrooms on the 5th floor with an elevator. The view was of Paris' wonderful slate grey roofs, red chimneys tops, lovely other buildings and the meandering streets below.
The minute we walked in the door we simply felt at home and began a whirlwind visit of 'our neighborhood'. Bliss, total bliss.
We walked up and down, back and forth, round and round the 6th and 5th for three days and couldn't see everything. It was 'Mission Impossible'.
Yet, we managed to shop, see three movies (in English), eat, drink, do the 'bio' market
on Boulevard Raspail, relax, cook, visit museums, shop some more and just be tourists 100% of the time.
Sundays and Mondays are not easy days to do restaurants that are in the guide books as so many are closed.
I had read up on them all, but we just said to 'heck with it' and let our noses lead us to local and - oh yes, non-French - restaurants that were open.
We started off with a short 'to do' list for our three days in Paris: walk every street
in the 6th arrondissement. Well, we failed. We only managed to walk round half the streets of the 5th and the 6th!
We also started off with a very short list of shopping goals 10 square plates.
Don't laugh! It isn't easy to find beautiful square plates.
But when you've three days in Paris in a most delightful apartment and all the time in the world to explore, you accomplish miracles... including square plates - that we found in the 9th!
Yes, we cheated a bit and found sea green square plates by Mongolfier at Galerie Lafayette on Boulevard Haussmann. I thought 25 euros per plate was more than extravagant, but square plates are a rather rare item it seems.
The Sunday market we'd originally planned to go
to was closed, so off we went to THE 'bio' market in Paris. It's on the Boulevard Raspail where it crosses rue de Rennes, métro Rennes or St. Placide.
This is not, a 'vegetarian' market. It is a 100% organic market with fish, meat, veg, fruit, soap, olive oil, cheese, wine - you name it, they had it.
We enjoyed the friendly crush of people on a slightly chilly morning at the end of January.
Food and drink shopping took up a fair bit of time as my partner had sweet and sour
duck on the menu for Monday night. Besides the 'bio' shopping, we found the local bakery, grocery store, wine shop and other speciality shops to round out our special dinner.
We ate our way around the world, sampling Greek, Belgian, Lebanese, Japanese and French lunches or dinners.
We found our restaurants by following our 'nose' and stopping when we were hungry. We ate a bit early one time, a bit late another or right at peak times.
At Léon de Bruxelles in the Saint-Germain quarter we had yummy moules et frites. This is a chain restaurant and there more than 10 restaurants in Paris. Sunday lunch with a Belgian theme seemed like a good idea to lots of people as the restaurant was filled with tourists and Parisians by 13:00.
Short on time before a film at 22:00, we nipped into one of the many Greek restaurants in the quarter and had tasty Greek dishes and wine. The service was snappy as we said right away that we were going to the cinema in about 90 minutes.
Another lunch took us to 'Shiki', a Japanese restaurant that served us at 14:00.
Our waitress and the manager were both from China and spoke English! We had very quick service as they cater to the business lunch trade.
Monday morning is when one should do museums, which we did, as many small shops are closed at least in the morning.
We wandered up and down the rue Moufftard and rue Monge and then heading towards the Panthéon, we settled on eating at Olivier du Village.
This tiny place had room for just 12 diners but you can get takeouts as well.
We sampled the Lebanese Harak, delicious 'mezes' - vegetarian or with meat, Lebanese wine, desserts and coffee with cardamon.
Olivier du Village is totally unprentious with wonderful food and very friendly service.
We had a lovely dinner at la Tourelle, on the rue Hautefeuille, about three minutes
from the apartment. This smallish restaurant is quite well-known, so do book ahead and enjoy the French cuisine and, yet again, very friendly service.
There are too many museums and sights to see in Paris. Mission impossible again.
We greatly enjoy the stunning permanent exhibition at the Museum of Natural History in the Grande Galerie de l'Evolution. There is so much to explore at the Natural History Museum - you will need a full day!
Monday morning in late January we were the only visitors to the Cour de Rohan in the 6th and the Arène de Lutèce in the 5th. My camera's batteries decided to go flat in the Arène and it wasn't until the afternoon that we found new ones.
Travel tip Keep spare camera batteries with you!
We did the 13th-century splendors from Syria at the Institut du Monde Arabe around noon time, avoiding the just-after-lunch crowds.
Travel tip Doing things 'out of order' is really a good way to do Paris. Go really early, squeeze in a visit quite close to closing time, plan on an evening museum visit or do a museum at lunch time. It worked for us!
Then there were places we know well but love seeing again and again in Paris.
They included the Panthéon, Saint Sulpice fountain and church, rue Monge, rue de Mouffetard, rue Saint Jacques, Boulevard Saint Michel and Saint Germain, Saint André des Arts, rue des Ecoles and more and more and more.
Do come to Paris soon - and plan on staying more than three days!
That is not mission impossible.
From Paris, Linda
Our Apartment Rental in Paris
![]()
Rendez-Vous A Paris
Paris Apartment Rentals
http://www.rendez-vousaparis.com/
Email: rendez-vous@wfi.frRestaurants
La Tourelle
5 rue Hautefeuille
75006 Paris
Phone: 01 46 33 12 47
Métro: St Michel
Closed Sundays and national holidays
French cuisineLéon de Bruxelles
More than 10 restaurants in Paris
75006 Paris
Métro: Mabillon for the Saint Germain quarter
Specializing in moules et frites - Belgian cuisine
Web Site: http://www.leon-de-bruxelles.fr/Olivier du Village
45 rue Descartes
75005 Paris
Phone: 01 44 07 18 19
Métro: Cardinal Lemoine
Lebanese cuisineShiki
39 rue Mazarine
75006 Paris
Phone: 01 46 34 40 89
Métro: Odéon
Closed Sundays
Shushi, Sashimi, Tempura, Japanese GrillMuseums
Institut du Monde Arabe
1 rue des Fossés-Saint-Bernard
75005 Paris
Phone 01 40 51 38 38
Métro: Maubert Mutualité or Cardinal Lemoine
Open 10:00 to 18:00
Closed: Monday
Web Site: http://www.imarabe.org/Muséum National d'Histoire Naturelle
57 rue Cuvier
75005 Paris
Phone: 01 40 79 30 00
Métro: Gare d'Austerlitz, Jusieu, Censier-Daubenton
Web Site: http://www.mnhn.fr/Grande Galerie de l'Evolution
Open from 10:00 to 18:00 Wednesday to Monday
Open Thursday until 22:00
Closed Tuesdays
36 rue Geoffroy Saint-HilaireLe Jardin des Plantes
Open from 7:30 to 17:30 in Winter and until 20:00 in SummerCinema
Gaumont
Web Site: http://www.gaumont.fr/
Paris In Sites Newsletter Current Issue Subscribe to the Newsletter
Paris
France
General
Email Linda@wfi.fr
Web Address http://www.parisinsites.com/Visit all the WebFrance International Sites
WebFrance International Home | Paris In Sites Newsletter | Paris Insider Guides |
Castles, Bed & Breakfast, Manors | Apartments | Hotels | Books & Multimedia |
Education & Culture | Language Learning | Paris |
Professional Services - B to B | Travel & Leisure in Paris and France |
Awards for WFI Sites | List of All WFI Sites |
![]()
Champs-Elysées The audiomagazine for people who love France and the French language and Spanish, Italian & German Copyright since 1995 by Linda Thalman - all rights reserved.
3 les Grandes Bruyères
91470 Boullay les Troux - France
Phone +33 (0)1 60 12 11 44